The Arlington store also serves appetizers, beer, and sake. Boca Oyster Bar, Bridgeport. It’s made with traditional ramen noodles, the rich, beefy broth from her birria, and a shot or two of a hot sauce she makes herself. Let rice unite us, indeed. Hummus with nigella seeds and burnt onions? Nothing is accidental; all of it is unforgettable. It teases your palate with herbal bitterness—enough so that teetotalers can allow themselves to pretend they’re sipping an amaro. You won’t find any fancy tasting menus on this list. Every Sunday night, Sales takes a break from barbecue to dish out excellent burgers, double-patty beauties with expertly crisped edges and a remarkably smoky flavor. The restaurant has good pedigree: Owner Alan Kearney is a native of Ireland (the pub’s name is a tip o’ the ol’ hat to a school located in his birthplace of Dublin), and he has experience in running Irish pubs from here to his homeland. Then the quarantines started, and we weren’t sure what we were going to do. Indo at 1641D Tower Grove Avenue —J.G. Barbecue may have dominated our food scene but not at the expense of other types of new restaurants. Dan Barber and his Michelin-starred team innovated in part by using beauty to inspire us: museum-worthy boxes of berries and flowers, picnics that gave people a moment to relish food and serenity in fresh air. Yes, we did it. A spinoff of Wild Acre’s mothership on the east side, this west side brewery offers a small but wildly impressive menu of artisan sandwiches, soups, salads, and small plates. Esquire participates in various affiliate marketing programs, which means we may get paid commissions on editorially chosen products purchased through our links to retailer sites. I’m not sure what a jewel like Mokyo is doing in the middle of the thumping, tattoo-parlored bacchanal that is St. Marks Place, especially with a culinary premise that is already difficult to explain to someone who just wants to get hammered. Opened: December 2019. The purrrfect pie: Jaime Fernandez of Black Cat Pizza makes some of the best pizza in Fort Worth. A few years ago, the city seemed hot to get away from its past as one new restaurant after another, from Wabi House to Piattello, introduced us to new, exhilarating cuisines or new ways of eating that had little to do with Fort Worth’s history as a hub for the cattle industry. It’s a sideways approach to the coastal region, but that’s the fun of it. I mean, the piping-hot boat of bread that is pide, with its duet of ajvar (a red-pepper spread) and kajmak (a creamy fresh cheese)! But the food from chefs Aidan O’Neal and Jake Leiber is the primary draw. Kids love the big playground, fun Star Wars decor, and, of course, scoops and cones from the ice cream shop next door, Cow Tipping Creamery — and heck, we do, too. 110 N. Jim Wright Freeway, facebook.com/belzoniscatfishcafe. Some of us volunteered, and some of us got in line. The flavors are bold, comforting. Others go by at lunch for excellent handhelds: a sliced tenderloin sandwich topped with bleu cheese crumbles on a sweet kolache bun; a burger with double patties of chuck and tenderloin; a BLT piled high with Klein Hardwood smoked bacon, which just may be the best bacon in the world. Owners Monica Wong and Dennis Cantwell and chef Melissa McGrath planned to open a small-plate restaurant. All this from a brewery. There’s a playfulness to the menu: Skate frites make an appearance in lieu of steak frites, pickled mussels instead of herring. Curtail your skepticism. One of three concepts he launched within a year (he also started a fajitas delivery service and opened Atico, a rooftop restaurant at the Springhill Suites in the Stockyards), Gemelle is another Love endeavor that marks a first in Fort Worth: Opened last fall, it was the first local restaurant to serve Detroit-style pizza. Fox and Pearl at 2143 Summit Street —K.S. Opened in January, this charmingly eclectic restaurant in the South Main Village is where you’ll find him in his element, making bar food great again, with dishes such as redfish egg rolls and PB&J wings, his signature chicken wings coated in Thai peanut sauce and blackberry coulis. Céntrico Taqueria & Tequila Bar, Bethel. All make up the new dining landscape of Las Vegas when they open in 2020. I also love the way Fieldtrip has evolved, thanks to Johnson’s heart and drive, into a hub of influence and enterprise on Harlem’s Malcolm X Boulevard: Just look at how thousands of those bowls were delivered to hospitals this year as Fieldtrip fed medical workers trying to save people’s lives. Helping boost the city’s embarrassingly low number of Indian cuisine options, King’s Kitchen opened last year in the Wedgwood area of Fort Worth in a nondescript strip mall near Interstate 20. Smothered pork chops and rotisserie chicken are also faves, as are the housemade desserts, every single one of them made by hand. While takeout, curbside pickups, and masked dining became the norm, there were plenty of new and exciting culinary spots Fort Worthians could enjoy. We’ll remember how Kevin Martinez of Tokyo Cafe hosted weekly meal giveaways, made up of food prepared by some of the city’s top chefs. Owner Toshia “Nana” Ramsey or one of her friendly employees will greet you with a menu and a smile, and soon you’ll feel right at home. Chef Shawn Naputi and general manager Shawn Camacho present the food of their native island with love and care—the food ultimately tells the story of the colonization of the Chamorro people by the Spanish, Japanese, and Americans over centuries. Tavern on State, New Haven. This year we launched a new dining category, Best New Restaurants, to recognize the top … A full-service restaurant, the Arlington location of Kintaro, which also opened this year, shines the spotlight solely on ramen, offering a half-dozen variations of the popular comfort soup, such as the outstanding Paitan ramen, which subs the usual pork or miso broth for a rich chicken broth. In a year teeming with new restaurants, we dined on speck and burrata, schnitzel, sous-vide octopus, loaded vegan nachos, karaage, meat pies and bowls of bouncy Chinese noodles—whew. . It’s a place that absolutely purrs with spirit. The restaurants arriving in Dallas in 2020 are eclectic and interesting. Inside you’ll find a plush dining room, all glass-top tables, and comfy high-back chairs, and, more importantly, stellar Indian/Middle Eastern cuisine, crafted and often served by owner Tarlok Signh. It has a noble literary lineage, yes—Emerson and Thoreau used to hang out there, for starters—but Troutbeck, a stately refuge in the Hudson Valley, hasn’t really been known as a destination for culinary seekers . It’s why I return. The place is gorgeous, decked out in handsome booths and dark woods, the vibe is upbeat, and the food is divine. He takes inspiration from the soil (his okra dish, called Mama Earth, looks and tastes like a supernova of texture and flavor) and from the dollar store (the cream inside his oatmeal-cookie sandwich is suffused with Tang). The dish is a decadent throwback, but like everything else at chef Dave Beran’s ode to Old World French cooking, it is surprisingly light and joyful and makes you feel special, sans snootiness. Best New Restaurant. Prubechu at 2224 Mission Street #A —K.S. Where to begin? The menu features domestic and international premium cuts of beef, including dinner-with-a-show dishes such as double-rib steak for two, served tableside. The restaurant is currently closed due to COVID-19, but owner Nafees Alam insists it’ll reopen by year’s end. Palm City at 4055 Irving Street —K.S. We may earn a commission from these links. At Leah & Louise, the Memphis-born chef Gregory Collier—who owns the Camp North End juke joint with his wife, Subrina—moves that conversation into its next phase, with a vision of Black southern cuisine that’s as innovative as it is fun. Be sure to grab a slice of sweet potato pie, too. With colorful decor, an upbeat vibe, and absolutely terrific food, Ashim’s has breathed new life into the old concept of a combination hibachi grill and sushi restaurant. Of course, you gotta get the fish and chips, made with Bowth beer-battered cod — so good, you may never go back to Zeke’s. He tops his pies with ingredients we all know and love, from pepperoni to mushrooms, but spends more time and energy coming up with creative combos like the all-veggie TMNT pie, a chicken-and-waffles pie, and the Red Fang, a fiery beast of a pizza topped with chorizo, roasted heirloom tomatoes, and Thai chili honey, whose pleasure is definitely worth the pain. As such, we present our Best New Restaurant list, made up of the city’s best and brightest new spots. By Jeff Gordinier. And rules are for amateurs. Love him or love him not, Fort Worth chef Tim Love is often ahead of the culinary curve. Photo by Kevin Kramer. Jeff Gordinier is Esquire's Food & Drinks Editor. Let's Find It. Catch him in an Airstream at 105 South Main St. until he opens a nearby brick-and-mortar in the old Alchemy Pops spot, which should be any moment now. Then there’s Santo Brúklin, a Brazilian … Start with the Smoky Chick, a chicken salad whose namesake ingredient is expertly smoked, then mixed with celery, green onions, and seasonings that the Carpenters are hesitant to divulge. But Found Oyster is more than that. Best Restaurant: Bludorn This is my favorite in 2020, the kind of restaurant that's been missing in Houston. It’s about the good fortune of falling into a conversation with a sommelier, like Madeline Maldonado, who can describe a beverage in ways that make you crave it in that exact moment and deepen your experience of tasting it as you drink. T alk about lousy timing. Smoked pastrami short rib? Wild, indeed. Best Dining in Ukiah, Mendocino County: See 2,640 Tripadvisor traveler reviews of 93 Ukiah restaurants and search by cuisine, price, location, and more. Held at Texas Republic bar, the pop-up was hosted by One Entertainment, which operates a number of businesses in West Seventh, and was meant to be a sneak preview of a brick-and-mortar to come. This year of nonstop tumult will also be remembered as the year Fort Worth once again embraced its heritage: beef. All have opened over the past 18 months or so, and all are in, for the first time ever for this list, Fort Worth proper. Best of Houston® 2020 The Houston Press is a nationally award-winning, 31-year-old publication ruled by endless curiosity, a certain … Festiva. But if we learned one thing this year, while trapped at home for weeks with tins of tuna and bags of dried beans, slowly being driven nuts by the monotonous, Groundhog Day–like grind, it’s this: We need restaurants more than ever. Case in point: Provender Hall, the third restaurant from local chef and restaurateur Marcus Paslay, pays homage to smoked meats and other forms of Southern cuisine, making it the perfect fit for the Stockyards’ Mule Alley development. As you enter, you might hear the sound of drinks being … Bognar, goateed and headbanded, toggles between cutting boards and cultures with the sprezzatura of a shredder. Many swing by after work to pick up rib-eyes, strip steaks, pork, chicken, sausages, and charcuterie. Try the fire-breathing hot chicken sandwich, made with hot chile-glazed fried chicken and horseradish pickles, and the O.D. Omar Tate, who’s now in the midst of crowdfunding for a community center in Philadelphia, is a poet, an essayist, a historian—he’s an artist at heart who just happens to express himself through the medium of cooking. 5054 Trail Lake Drive, kingskitchenrestaurant.com, The past two years have been banner years for craft-inspired barbecue in Fort Worth, and one of the reasons why is this family-run ’cue joint not far from the Near Southside. In normal years, I travel around the country for months hunting for the restaurants that I want to send all of my friends to, the restaurants that are telling stories that I can’t seem to shake, the restaurants where the cooking is so good that I make loud, embarrassing sounds while I’m eating it. There are other reasons to like Love’s stylish ode to Italian food: You can sit outside near the sunken garden where some of the restaurant’s produce is plucked; the pasta’s good; and the service and drinks are top-notch, both vastly improved since Gemelle opened. Discover new restaurants and where to find the best food in Miami. “A lot of the new guys are doing barbecue with a Tex-Mex twist,” he says. Our culture-and-lifestyle director, Kevin Sintumuang, got behind the wheel and drove with his wife and two daughters from Brooklyn to the West Coast and all the way back, logging thousands of miles and hitting cities like Denver, Billings, San Francisco, Los Angeles, Phoenix, Kansas City, and Chicago along the way. We put together an Esquire Best New Restaurants list in the middle of a global pandemic. Inside the two-story restaurant, converted from the area’s original livestock barns, diners get picture-perfect views of the kitchen, where Paslay and executive chef Scott Lewis prepare smoked chicken, smoked pork chops, chicken-fried steak, and a ginormous beef rib for two. da Toscano at 24 Minetta Lane —J.G. We happened to find it on quiet, sunlit afternoons at the Jones (formerly the Great Jones Cafe, now gently spruced up by restaurateur Gabe Stulman), where chef Jack Harris served up his own deeply satisfying homemade interpretation of a certain seafood sandwich associated with the Golden Arches. Circumstances were weird, to say the least. Not far from Brix, Dayne’s serves killer brisket and other ’cue essentials, but he pays extra attention to sausage, making it himself. Here I ate inside, and I’m glad I did. NiHao is the brainchild of a power quartet: Peter Chang, the elusive mid-Atlantic legend of Szechuan cuisine; his wife, Lisa; their daughter, Lydia; and the pastry wizard Pichet Ong. Ryan’s food finds that farm-fresh, leisurely thread between California and France that makes you want to order another bottle of wine and consider slowing life down a bit. Hummus with curried lamb and apricots? There’s a lot of seafood, too, including a ginger miso white soy swordfish. 15 Exciting New Restaurants Open in Manhattan Right Now A buzzy Arab-Latin spot and a Georgian newcomer join the list this month by … NiHao at 2322 Boston Street —J.G. You’ll want to pair everything with Coors, at first. Piccolina, the little sister to chef Amy Brandwein’s Centrolina, hums with a laid-back spirit of spontaneity, specializing in the à la minute char of a wood-fired oven. Yeah, we all needed a little comfort this year. Misfit SnackBar. While most of us can’t wait to forget 2020, there’s a lot worth remembering, at least from a culinary standpoint. We’ll remember the other food drives, too, the ones hosted by churches and schools and other helping hands. Yeah, throw that in as well. By Christina Izzo Posted: Monday December 14 2020, 1:45 PM. But the sandwiches are pure gold. His scallop tostada is a modern classic adorned with yuzu kosho and opal basil. The Korean-style fried chicken is done by Kimski chef Won Kim. Fort Worth’s prayers for a good Irish pub were answered this past summer when Trinity College Irish Pub arrived in the West Seventh area, taking over the spot briefly occupied by Tortaco. He balances upscale finger food with equally intriguing entrées, like pan-seared scallops with fried green tomatoes; a watermelon gazpacho spiked with cucumber and red onion; and an outstanding burger, whose patty is seared in duck fat. The hoagies were a pandemic pivot. Kalaya at 764 South Ninth Street —J.G. It has been a boom year for new restaurants especially, so not only are we breaking down the top 10 newcomers, but we’re declaring an outright winner. Okay, that too. No risk, no reward: On a Saturday night at Mokyo, I had dishes like pork jowl with a kalamata aioli and corn dumplings in a truffle salsa verde that were head-spinningly delicious in ways that I have never experienced before. That would include the empanadas, perfectly flaky and irresistibly buttery; the achiote roasted pork, draped in a cape of luscious mole verde; and the super-cool guacamole flight, made up of three different kinds of guac. Pasjoli at 2732 Main Street —K.S. From healthy eateries to casual watering holes, here is Nashville Guru’s list of the best new Nashville restaurants and bars of 2020.Some of these hot spots have top-notch cuisine, while others offer an atmosphere suitable for your next night out. Here’s a look at some of our fave new eats from food trailers, trucks, and pop-ups: Hot chicken sandwich from Hot Chicks Chicken: Forget The Cookshack and Rule the Roost. As for the how part, suffice it to say that, yes, we had to make a few adjustments to our annual process. Top Chef alumnus Jamie Lynch heads this winning restaurant And local brand Pretty Cool Ice Cream provides dessert. 6513 Brentwood Stair Road, facebook.com/thesmokedchickensaladman, Burger from Brix Barbecue and sausage from Dayne’s Craft Barbecue: Two of Fort Worth’s best and brightest new pitmasters — Trevor Sales of Brix and Dayne Weaver of Dayne’s — have been running food trailers for months, developing their own unique styles of craft-inspired ’cue. And why? Of course, that’s the point: Nana’s is determined to take you back home to the meat-and-potatoes type of food many of us grew up on. We ate outside at rickety tables in the rain; we got sublime hoagies and took them to the beach; in some cases, we just ordered boxes of food and carted them home. The top story in American cooking over the past decade has been the rise of Black chefs such as Mashama Bailey, Edouardo Jordan, and Kwame Onwuachi—and a long-overdue celebration of the foodways of the African diaspora. Itinerant and unsinkable, improvisatory and bold, Tate captured the radical shifts of 2020 with everything he undertook. Even the city’s upscale restaurants have been paying more attention to barbecue, beef, and various facets of homestyle cooking. Chef Daisy Ryan and her husband, Gregory, have created a place that feels so welcoming and familiar, yet every bite brings excitement, as if you were trying steak au poivre, or uni and caviar, or even salad and fries and ice cream, for the first time. Leah & Louise at 301 Camp Road —J.G. Restaurants Raffles Place. The menu seems to have been written by a hypnotist. That’s because area hospital workers are in the know about Katrina and Travis Carpenter’s tiny cafe, found a block or two from the hospital district. 7 Brand New Restaurants Offering Delivery in New Orleans, August 2020 ; 8. Call before you go. There’s also a smoked bacon grilled cheese, an imaginative fish ’n’ chips sandwich made with Agave Americana beer-battered cod, and a vegan Cuban made with braised jackfruit. In the evening, there’s a lot of action on the grill, but the hibachi chefs are more about offering you a mouthwatering peek of what you’re about to eat — be it rib-eye, sea scallops, or lobster — than showing off their knife-throwing skills, as is the case at other hibachi grills. It’s not all just meat, mind you. Get the ramen, too. The number of new artisan ’cue spots in Fort Worth has been staggering; these are two of the best. The best thing about 2020? But Jay Jerrier — the Dallas restaurateur who brought us Cane Rosso — did Fort Worth a solid by opening a location of this family-friendly pizza joint here, and now it’s hard to imagine what life was like before it. You’ll switch to champagne before the night is over. Meanwhile, Brent Kroll’s confident, majestic wine list has categories like “Unicorn Wines,” “The Outsiders,” and “Donnie Darko Reds.” Order everything on the menu for dinner and then come back to Yellow for a breakfast pita with kefta the next morning. The grilled trout is a must. Smart move, or else everyone would have a chicken salad this good. Balkan Treat Box at 8103 Big Bend Boulevard, Pizza, Fried Chicken, Ice Cream at 964 West Thirty-First Street, Esquire's Best New Restaurants in America, 2019, Esquire's Best Restaurants in America, 2018, Esquire's Best New Restaurants in America 2015, The Best New Restaurants in America, 2013. The bar gave off a crimson glow, and I listened to German jazz that could’ve been the soundtrack of a David Lynch movie. Best New Restaurant Europa Restaurant & Bar. until now. You’ll have a tough time finding a better Reuben on this side of Camp Bowie. Noma Reopened With Burgers Served at Picnic Tables. But like other area restaurants, Tinie’s reopened recently with a slightly smaller menu that, thankfully, includes all the hallmarks that made it memorable to begin with. Pay attention to the scotch eggs, hard-boiled eggs wrapped in herb-infused sausage and panko breadcrumbs. Does chef Dale Talde’s shift from Brooklyn to Westchester County represent a kind of suburban cash-in? We promise we’ll come back.) Plus, we name our Restaurant of the Year. Order another on the way back. We wore our masks. (Looking back now, I can’t help but think of Eddie Van Halen onstage unleashing a Mozartian flourish of arpeggios just for the virtuosic fuck of it.) Visit Website. Despite the challenges Music City faced in 2020, the restaurant scene still saw some notable newcomers. . This may lead you to ask a couple of questions. There, you can indulge in co-owner/drinks maestro Glen Keely’s craft cocktails, plush seating, and stunning views of downtown. In particular, barbecue. Houston. But with the finesse and creativity that chef Vaughn Good employs, give me meat and potatoes all day. Maldonado has a gift for using wine to open your mind. The Italian-American has a zing from arugula and a ’nduja aioli; the au poivre makes other roast-beef sandwiches seem bland. If there’s a unifying theme, something that all of our picks have in common, it would be the stubborn survival of community in the face of what can only be called an existential threat. Restaurant news written and compiled by Malcolm Mayhew. More proof meat has made a comeback: The Meat Board, a combo restaurant and high-end meat shop/butcher, has been swamped since it opened on the west side in late 2019. 1116 Eighth Ave., derekallansbbq.com; 4645 Dick Price Road, goldeesbbq.com. This 18-Foot BBQ Smoker Was Stolen. Located on the west tip of downtown, it does monster business at lunch as the city’s movers and shakers talk bonuses and layoffs over poke bowls, sushi rolls, and bento boxes generously stuffed with grilled salmon, veggies, and dumplings. Downtown Mesa saw huge food openings in 2020, Que Chevere headlining. Even in a city with arguably the most exciting food scene in the United States, Kalaya leaves the competition in the dust. “Tex-Soul is my twist. He serves great ’cue, too, but his smooth and spicy chicken salad — sold as a sandwich or with a sleeve of Club crackers — is the absolute best in town. Panther-City Media Group. Find the best restaurants, food, and dining in Point Arena, CA 95468, make a reservation, or order delivery on Yelp: search reviews of 13 Point Arena restaurants by price, type, or location. When I look back at the anxieties and sorrows of this pandemic year, I will always be grateful for the sweet relief of a dinner with my daughter at da Toscano, where we sat under an umbrella on the sidewalk and listened to a young jazz trio. Listen and look around: Tate has curated everything you see and hear and eat, including the art on the walls, so that it enriches the experience of the pop-up. Weaver is constantly coming up with cool sausage flavors like chicken bacon ranch, and those flavors rotate every week — no small feat. The food, no doubt. 218 Bryan Ave., brixbarbecue.com; 2735 W. Fifth St., daynescraftbarbecue.com, Beignets from Dusty Biscuit: Bless Trey Smith for bringing New Orleans-style beignets and Café au Lait coffee to the South Main area. © FWTX.COM All rights reserved. Chicken-fried oysters crunch like Popeyes, yielding to briny goodness. So Do Black-Owned Businesses. We’ll have the nostalgia with extra tartar sauce, please. 2801A Florida Ave., Coconut Grove. Well, it’s a Southern thing. His cooking is, in all senses of the word, playful. The duo, dipping into a grab bag of influences, reboot old Gallic warhorses with West Coast sunshine and Quebecois funk. Mokyo at 109 Saint Marks Place —J.G. The atmosphere, especially at the picnic tables in the parking lot, is festive and familial, however: a big, hearty invitation to enjoy sweet rolls with a butter made from tuba (coconut sap), dry-fried chicken wings served with a tangy fina’denne’ sauce, and tinaktak, tender coconut-braised beef and green beans served atop handmade egg noodles. An ornate cart arrives at the table with a roasted duck. We put together an Esquire Best New Restaurants list in the middle of a global pandemic. Restaurants were forced to change—fast—as the pandemic hurt their business. Kolender performs a meant-to-be marriage by dressing up a lobster roll with bisque. Now Barber is taking the realignments a step further, surrendering his role in the kitchen in 2021 so that a diverse lineup of chefs from around the world can have access to the resources of Stone Barns and connect with a wider audience. You will want to become a regular, and many have. Kalaya is the restaurant that every food writer—hell, every food lover—dreams of walking into someday. Then we took a bite. Bell's at 406 Bell Street —Kevin Sintumuang. Barbecue aficionados are now driving up from Lockhart and Austin to taste our barbecue. 305-204-2372. Weekend brunchers swarm the place for lemon bar French toast, which tastes every bit as good as it sounds. Jaelyn Molyneux February 26, 2020 March 2, 2020. Grab a six-pack at Maria’s next door (both spots are owned by Ed Marszewski) and you’ve got a real neighborhood hang. In particular, the second-story bar was modeled after the dark mezcal halls of Mexico City. Sit among the dunes, pop open that pét nat, and savor some of the most nuanced classic sandwiches in the country. It’s never just about the wine list. It’s an understatement to say that 2020 was different. Hamilton Park / High George, New Haven. There’s plenty of traditional bar food, too, including a half-dozen burgers, an excellent selection of beer (duh, Irish pub), and a killer patio. That may sound like a lot to undertake—hopscotching gleefully, as it does, from crab rangoon to Peking duck to cold tofu with century egg to (hey, why not?) Named after the town from which Cooley hails, Cooley’s snug spot specializes in farm-raised catfish. But really it’s an alternate universe, a crepuscular alcove for anyone who wants to nibble jamón ibérico and experiment with Louis-Antoine Luyt’s indie whites from Chile all night long. Please note: Due to COVID-19, some restaurants may not be open for dine-in service. Balkan Treat Box at 8103 Big Bend Boulevard —J.G. Particularly good is the Le Cordon Bleu-trained cook’s meat loaf, made from scratch and big enough for two. Meanwhile, much of the menu at Indo is rooted in the complexities of Thai cuisine that the chef grew up with. Won us over this year: can this guy do anything school teacher serves... Cat pizza makes some of the city ’ s a place that absolutely purrs with spirit with spirit pile... Big Bend Boulevard —J.G present our best new Restaurant list, made with Rahr & Sons beer-infused queso, brisket... Remind us, all is temporary over this year places like Nana ’ best... Taste our barbecue down the block at 11:00 in the country out of his tiny kitchen other ’ cue and! Reboot old Gallic warhorses with West Coast sunshine and Quebecois funk lemon bar French,. 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